Saturday's Cupboard.
This deluptuous Japanese place in Williamsburg is a dim and mysterious labyrinth. We traipsed through narrow corridors and up and down stairs on stepping stones between riverbeds of igneous rocks. It was like a moonlit stroll through the bowels of a fully kitted-out maximum zen walk-up, all low slung with chutes and bamboo ladders. The waitress led us into a booth with walls floor-to-ceiling. She tucked us in there and rolled down a bamboo privacy shade. Karen, Anna, Tom and I enjoyed warm hand towels inside our own little cupboard. I suffer a fondness for a warm towel, especially when it gets dangled before me on tongs while I am nestled in my own cupboard. Moments later, the waitress whisked back. Zip zip, she rolled up our privacy shade, took our towels and explained that if we wanted anything, we should press the buzzer on the edge of the table. She stressed this. If you want anything from the broader world beyond your cupboard, ring for it. Immediately after ...